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2023. Dec VOL.669
2023. Dec VOL.669
I get on the bus that will take me from Seoul to Buan. Out the window, I see a bleak, lonesome winter landscape passing by. Just as the bus gets out of Seoul, snow starts to fall. Perhaps in just a little over three hours, the bus arrives at the Busan Inter-city Bus Terminal where I can grab a bus that goes to Naesosa Temple via Julpo. It takes about 50 minutes to get to the temple. The snowfall gets heavier and heavier on the way to the temple. Seen through the window of the bus, the snowflakes look like cotton candy or tiny cotton ball. Naesosa Temple was founded by female Buddhist monk Haegu Duta in 633 or the 34th year of the reign of Baekje Kingdom’s King Mu. The temple had been repeatedly rebuilt and renovated over the years before it was mostly destroyed during the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592. Later, Master Monk Cheongmin rebuilt the temple during the period of King Injo’s reign and the beautiful Daeungbojeon Hall in 1633, the 11th year of King Injo’s reign. The temple is nestled below Gwaneumbong Peak 433m above sea level. Since the peak is also known as Neunggasan, the temple is also called “Neunggasan Naesosa.” In fact, the temple was initially named “Soraesa,” which means “a place you come to for rebirth.”
When it snows, the fir trail on the way to Naesosa Temple turns all white as it gets covered in snow. There is no way of getting to the temple without going through the fir forest trail. When the temple was rebuilt after it had been completely burned down during the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, fir trees were planted along the path leading to the temple. The trees grew to create a forest that is now better known than the temple itself. The snow-covered temple per se is a spectacular sight to behold. The Naesosa fir forest is voted one of the top three fir forests in Korea including the fir forests at Weoljeongsa Temple and Gwangneung Arboretum. While the fir forest at Weoljeongsa is well-trimmed and organized, the one in front of Naesosa has fir trees planted in such a way that they look like they grew naturally, giving the forest a more calming and relaxing look. The fir trees rise as tall as 30 to 40m and the fir trail runs over 600m, leading right to the entrance of the temple. Taking a deep breath, you will be able to spread the uniquely refreshing scent of fir trees throughout your body. Leaving the fir forest behind, I passed through the Four Guardians Gate and entered the temple compound. The first thing you see as soon as you step into the temple compound is a zelkova known to be a thousand years old. Naesosa is not a temple of fancy design or architectural beauty but has its own charm of simplicity and serenity.
The Daeungbojeon Hall was built without using a single nail by cutting and trimming each wood to fit others, and they were then put together. In particular, the floral-patterned muntin in the doors on the front side of the building is highly praised for the sophisticated carving artwork illustrating the natural beauty of flowers. The colors have been erased by wind and rain over the years, revealing the colors of natural wood. The humble and simple beauty of nature evokes a sense of sacredness and piety in the minds of the viewers. If you have time, a temple stay is also recommended. Naesosa is famous for its trekking temple stay program. The program lets you stay at the temple, trek in the mountain and valleys, and indulge in soul-searching contemplation. The hiking course starts from Naesosa Temple, goes through Jikso Waterfalls, Jebaggi Hill, Gwanumbong Three-way Intersection, and fir forest, and comes back to the temple. If the trekking temple stay is a bit of a challenge for you, the temple offers a relaxation-focused temple stay program as well. In this program, you participate in the early-morning ceremonial service and communal Buddhist meal service and enjoy your temple stay leisurely for the rest of the day. During your stay, you will be able to hear clearly the sounds of winds blowing by, leaves rolling in the wind, and water flowing along.
Su Dong Po, a Song dynasty poet, was so fascinated by the breathtaking scenery of Jeokbyeokgang River that he wrote the famous poem about the river below.
“It was the 16th day in the early autumn of the year Ren Xu when I, Su Shi, went boating with my friends in the river near the Red Cliff. A fresh cool breeze was blowing, too gentle to ripple the water. Raising my cup, I toasted my friends, recited and chanted the verses from the Bright Moon from the Classics of Poetry.”
Tang dynasty poet Li Bai drowned after falling from his boat as he tried to embrace the moon in Yangtze River. Both Jeokbyeokgang River and Chaeseokgang River are known for their exceptionally beautiful landscape that the two best poets of the Tang dynasty were fascinated with them. There are Jeokbyeokgang River and Chaeseokgang Cliff in Buan, Korea, and they were named as such for their beautiful scenery matching that of the same-named Chinese rivers. Jeokbyeokgang River is a coastal cliff region with its coastline featuring rocks in various shapes and sizes. At sunset, these rocks create a mysterious, magical scenery in the orange background, looking totally different from the daytime landscape. For this reason, it is known as a sunset attraction in Buan. Just a little away from Jeokbyeokgang River is Chaeseokgang featuring a 1.5km coastal cliff along the west coast of Byeonsan Peninsula. The coastal cliff refers to Gyeokpo Port at the western tip of the peninsula and the rocky cliff in Daggibong on the right. The basal bed consists of granite and gneiss. The cliff formed in the Cretaceous period of the Mesozoic era some 70 million years ago is layered, looking like piles of tens of thousands of roof tiles. The oddly beautiful shape of the cliff makes us think how mysterious and profound the way of nature is. In front of the cliff is Gyeokpo Port where many restaurants serve clam soup. Clams grow in a mudflat that is relatively firm enough to keep your feet from sinking into it. Clams have deep, rich, and sweet flavors. Clams from Buan were considered a local delicacy and offered to the king in the Joseon period. Grab a clam from the soup and dip it in sweet-sour red pepper sauce and you will experience the sweet, rich flavor of the clam bursting throughout your mouth. As you savor a hotpot of clam soup boiling right in front of you, you will be glad that it is winter.
One of the best ways to travel in Byeonsan Peninsula is to drive along National Highway No. 30. The highway stretching along the outskirts of Byeonsan runs from Buan, goes through Saemangeum, Daehang-ri, and leads to Chaeseokgang Cliff, Gyeokpo Port, Mohang, and Gomso. The fishing village and beautiful beach set in the sunset, rocks on the seashore and ports, fishing boats swinging in the waves….All these scenes strike a chord in our hearts. Driving past Chaeseokgang Cliff and Naesosa Temple, you will get to Mohang. The coastal road running around Byeonsan Peninsula offers the most beautiful view on the west coast of the country. With the sea on your right, serene ports, oddly shaped cliffs, and cozy and peaceful beaches keep popping up as if nature were performing a magic show along the long and winding road. Once you get out of Mohang and continue driving along the road, you will reach Gomso Port in Jinseo-myeon. The port is located at Gomso (Julpo) Bay that stretches between Byeonsan Peninsula and Seonunsan. People will likely think of salted seafood when they hear the name Gomso. Locals use fish and seafood caught off the coast of Byeonsan Peninsula and sea salt produced at salt farms in Gomso to make salted seafood. Sea salt produced in Gomso is regarded as high-quality salt because it is rich in minerals and it tastes more on the sweet side than salty. The bank of Gomso Port is lined with salted fish shops. Shops offer samples for customers to try. Gomso salted seafood is made with only two ingredients—seafood and sea salt; the rest is up to nature and time for natural fermentation. Salted seafood produced in Gomso has more umami than that produced in other regions. Many restaurants serve a set menu featuring salted seafood and a variety of side dishes for less than 10,000 won. Right next to Gomso Port is Gomso salt farm. In winter, the farm is filled with white snow instead of salt. I ordered a seafood set menu at a humble local restaurant in Gomso Port. The set included a steaming bowl of rice, some kimchi, and a wide array of salted seafood whose names I did not know. I grabbed some salted seafood with my chopsticks and put it on top of a spoonful of rice. Snow was falling heavily outside. The red and white colors of salted seafood and rice made a romantic contrast. Although the pile of heavy snow would make my way back home a little more difficult, I decided to forget about the traffic and indulged in the pleasure of great food and the romantic serenity of winter.
Mohang is a small fishing village with a population of around 100 people. On both sides of the small road on which only one car can run are low-lying houses facing each other across the road as if they were having a friendly conversation. The village is known for the beautiful sunset. An incredibly beautiful scenery is created when it snows over the sea.
Address:107 Mohang-gil, Byeonsan-myeon, Buan-gun, Jeonbuk
As a scenic path that runs 17.5km along Byeonsan Peninsula, Byeonsan Masil-gil was created in October 2009. The path starts from Saemangeum Exhibition Hall and stretches along the coastal road to reach Gosapo Beach. The beach runs 2km. The road continues from the beach along the coastal guard post road to get to Jeokbyeokgang Cliff.
Address:Byeonsan-myeon, Buan-gun, Jeonbuk
