The Taste of That Place

Slow Food Created Amongst Flowing Rivers

Okcheon, a land embraced by the clear waters of the Geumgan River.
A nostalgic and cozy aroma permeates the dining tables here, where the warmth of life has been quietly kindled by using the simple and humble ingredients provided by nature.

Text by. Jinmyung Park    
Photos by. Jaeseok Bong

Life Unfolding Along the Waterway

The winding Geumgang River meanders between the mountain ridges, spreading out large and small waterways throughout Okcheon. The braided streams flowing into the Geumgang River have also passed through villages and fields along the way, remaining a close part of the daily lives of the people. Where the waterways flow, land for farming is created, and villages take root. People have naturally lived in harmony with the river, catching fish and gathering by the water’s edge to cool off during the sweltering summers.
River fishing is a scene that vividly reflects the daily lives of people who have lived close to the waterways, holding significance beyond merely going out to the stream to catch freshwater fish, and then boiling or grilling them on the spot to share with neighbors. It also encompasses the joy of people socializing together. The time spent adding a personal touch to the fish harvested from the water and gathering around to share food has created local dishes unique to Okcheon over time. Fish noodles, deep-fried minnows with a spicy glaze, and fried Goby Minnow fully reflect the lives and memories of the people who have lived alongside the Geumgang River and Bocheongcheon Stream.

Fish noodles

The Simplicity of River Fishing Rediscovered through Local Flavors

At the eastern end of Okcheon, high mountain ridges provide a spectacular backdrop, while the waters of Bocheongcheon Stream meander beneath them. The place where the stream flows out of a mountain valley to form a gentle basin and spreads out into a vast field is Cheongsan-myeon, where people and goods have gathered since ancient times. To the people who have settled here, the river has been both a cradle of life and a precious lifeline. In the summer, the village elders have gathered by the stream to enjoy fishing. The entire village comes together, puts freshwater fish into large pots, boils them thoroughly until the bones crumble, adding spicy gochujang seasoning to make spicy fish stew, and then gathering around to enjoy the feast. The addition of thin noodles, which absorb the thick broth well, makes the delicious fish noodle soup.
The simple flavors of river fishing, once shared only with neighbors, was rediscovered as a local specialty in the early 1960s as more and more specialized restaurants opened in the market street of Cheongsan-myeon. The restaurants opened in the Fish Noodle Specialty Street created in 2018 have welcomed customers for over half a century. The rich broth, infused with deep culinary expertise, permeates the still-soft noodles, delivering a savory and profound taste that intensifies with every chew.

Deep-fried minnows with a spicy glaze

Fried Goby Minnows

A Delicacy Capturing Memories of the Riverside

Deep-fried minnows with a spicy glaze (Dori Bangbang in Korean), another local specialty of Okcheon, is also deeply rooted in the history of simple river fishing enjoyed by the riverside. It originated from a dish made by arranging freshwater fish, caught in the clear currents of the Bocheongcheon Stream or Geumgang River during the summer, in a circular pattern in a flat, round pan, and grilling them. The dish was given the endearing name of Dori Bangbang because its circular arrangement resembles the shape of people sitting around in circles. Well-cleaned freshwater fish are arranged in a circle in a frying pan and grilled until crispy, then brushed with a spicy and sweet gochujang sauce to add a glossy sheen.
The savory flavor and crispy texture of eating the fish whole, bone and all, mask the fishy smell of freshwater fish, while the spicy seasoning and the fragrant aroma of perilla leaves combine to create a magnificent delicacy. Deep-fried minnows with a spicy glaze, grilled to a golden brown in a round fan shape, vividly conveys to those who have not experienced those times a sense of warmth of people gathering in a circle to share affection.
Fried Goby Minnow (Maju twigim in Korean) is another delicacy travelers must try in Okcheon. The Goby minnow, a freshwater fish caught in the Geumgang River and Bocheongcheon Stream and known locally as “Maju,” is characterized by its firm flesh and minimal earthy smell. Fried Goby Minnow is made by cleaning the fish, coating it thinly in batter, and frying it until golden brown and crispy. It has a crispy exterior and a moist interior, and as you chew, a mild and nutty flavor spreads intensely in one’s mouth. This fried dish, which has been established as a local specialty of Cheongsan-myeon market alley, together with fish noodles and deep-fried minnows with a spicy glaze, captivates travelers as a delicacy that perfectly captures the pleasure of eating freshly caught fish and serves as a savory accompaniment to alcohol.

The simple flavors of river fishing,
once shared only with neighbors,
was rediscovered as a
local specialty in the early 1960s
as more and more
specialized restaurants
opened in the market street of
Cheongsan-myeon.