Water-painted scenery

Okcheon,
a Destination for Nostalgia and Reflection

“At the eastern edge of the wide plain / Where a narrow streamlet murmuring old stories meanders along,” is one of the lines penned by the poet Jeong Ji-yong who soothed his nostalgia for Okcheon while studying in Japan.
I headed to Okcheon, Chungcheongbuk-do, a place of deep longing for someone and a sanctuary for profound reflection for others.

Text by. Jinmyung Park    
Photos by. Jaeseok Bong

Chusojeong

Thoughts and Reflections
Along the Waterway
As you stroll along the green forest path alongside the calm and serene Daecheongho Lake, Sunlight shining through the trees and waves rippling with the wind welcome you.
Let’s take a walk alongside the peaceful waters of Okcheon, following the scenery that lingered in the poet’s heart for a long time.

Through the video above, you can enjoy the sound of water encountered on the Hyangsu Lake Road.

Busodamgak

Exploring the Hidden Scenery of Daecheongho Lake, like a Folding Screen Floating on Water

Surrounded by mountain slopes on all sides, a road sign ‘Okcheon’ welcomed me warmly, though the breeze rushing past the car’s window grew chilly. The first place where I headed to upon arrival was Busomuni Village, a propitious site beneath Hwansan Mountain shaped like a lotus flower floating on water, whose former name is even glorious. As I stepped out of the car, I sensed the aroma of clear, deep water, and Busodamgak, the hidden scenic wonder of Okcheon, revealed its majestic presence.
True to its Chinese character meaning, the towering cliffs stretching 700 meters above Daecheongho Lake like lotus flowers blooming by the water instantly captured my attention. Although the foothills were submerged in the deep waters of Daecheongho Dam in 1981, a breathtaking landscape resembling a folding screen has instead emerged above the water’s surface. The dignity that Uam Song Si-yeol, a prominent Neo-Confucian scholar and statesman of of the Joseon Dynasty, praised as “Little Geumgang” remains intact and undiminished with the passage of time, captivating the hearts of travelers.
I then ambled along the shady trails and wooden deck paths that follow the cliffs. As I stepped into the sunlight breaking through the leaves and gentle waves of the lake lapping beneath my feet, I reached a pavilion called Chusojeong. I took a moment to catch my breath and cast my gaze toward the lakeside. Directly ahead, Daecheongho Lake seemingly opens its arms to embrace and welcome travelers, while to the right, a pine forest bearing centuries of history majestically watches over the river. As I quietly closed my eyes in this magical place where even the wind held its breath, it finally felt like my real journey had begun in Okcheon.

Jeong Ji-yong birthplace

Following the Poet’s Path Stretching from a Narrow Stream to Daecheongho Lake

Okcheon, offering a journey from water to water. Now I traced back the steps of the life of the poet Jeong Ji-yong along a clear, narrow stream. Originating from a nearby hill, the stream curves around the entrance to the village, and along its course, low-lying thatched houses and rice paddies blend in harmony. Centered around the birthplace and literary museum of poet Jeong Ji-yong, the village remains, then and now, filled with scenes of life flowing along the spine of a little stream. Although the outward appearance may have changed with the passage of time, gazing at the stream flowing in front of his birthplace and the modest farmlands allows me to vaguely guess where his poetic world began. Although, tragically, poet Jeong Ji-yong went missing during the Korean War — never to return after setting out from his home in Nokbeon-dong, Seoul, with his disciples — his literary spirit remains deeply embedded in his hometown of Okcheon.
The traces of his literary spirit can be clearly found on the Hyangsu (meaning ‘Nostalgia’) Lake Road, named after his masterpiece, Nostalgia. Starting from Prehistoric Park and winding along Daecheongho Lake, the 5.6km eco-cultural trail provides a pleasant walking course where travelers can enjoy the tranquility of the lake and the shade of the forest. After walking for a little over 30 minutes, I came across the Mulbineul Observatory, featuring an impressive, long wooden bridge. This spot could be described as a highlight, a place where the lyricism of poet Jeong Ji-yong is condensed, and offering visitors the closest view of the blue waves of Daecheongho Lake. As if the voice of the poet — who wrote, “How could I ever forget this place, even in my dreams” — was carried like on the ripples of the lake, the blue waves of Daecheongho Lake sparkled, harboring a heart-wrenching longing.

Hyangsu Lake Road

Jeong Ji-yong literary museum

Centered around the birthplace and literary museum of poet Jeong Ji-yong,
the village remains, then and now,
filled with scenes of life flowing along the spine of a little stream.

Jangnyeongsan
Forest Cave

Passing through the Forest Crafted by Clear Water, into Mystical Light

Next, I headed to Jangnyeongsan Mountain in search of the tranquility offered by the deep forests and valleys of Okcheon. Jangnyeongsan Mountain is a barrier dividing the waterways of the Geumgang River basin that wind through the Okcheon area, and it is also the final destination where it meets the stream. For a long time, thanks to the Jangnyeongsan Mountain Natural Recreation Forest, which features walking trails, valleys, and accommodation facilities, it has been like a sanctuary for local residents. Travelers can stroll along walking trails where the phytoncides emitted by pine trees stretching toward the sky awaken every sense, or dip their feet in the valley stream, which sparkles with an emerald hue and emits the sounds of crystal clear water. I witness a peaceful scene of meditating people sitting on mats reading books or quietly closing their eyes to meditate ripples outward like waves.
Finally, I make my way deep into the recreational forest to reach today’s destination: the Forest Cave. The place was once known as the Dongguk Mine, where workers sweated and breathed heavily while mining iron ore from the mid-1960s. After its closure in 1985 and being left desolate for a long time, the abandoned mine has been transformed into a unique tourist attraction and has now entered a completely new era. As I stepped into the cool mineshaft, a world of fantasy unfolded before me. Colorful lights and mysterious media art illuminated a pitch-black cave, creating the illusion of having stepped into the aurora borealis. The tunnels peeking through the colorful lights allowed me to imagine the scene of the miners digging to extract iron ore back then. This unexpected sight, encountered suddenly while walking along the forest path, serves as a cool place to relax, while revealing a new attraction of Okcheon.

Wishes on the Wishing Rock inside the Forest Cave

Colorful lights and mysterious media art illuminated a pitch-black cave,
creating the illusion of having stepped into the aurora borealis.