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2023. July VOL. 664
- 2023. July VOL. 664
- ENG
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2023. July VOL. 664
Many people are familiar with Hangang River, Nakdonggang River, and Seomjingang River, but not Geumgang River. As one of the four major rivers in Korea, Geumgang River was named with the meaning of “silky river” because of its beautiful landscape, which resembles silk unfolding along the water. Originating from Tteunbongsaem Spring in Jangsu, Jeollabuk-do, the water joins Jinancheon Stream, Jeoksangcheon Stream, and Namdaecheon Stream in Muju and, upon reaching Jewon-myeon, Geumsan-gun, passes through mountain ranges and then Yeongdong-gun in Chungcheongbuk-do, becoming a larger river; after running through Gongju, Buyeo, and Gunsan, it flows into the sea. The length of the river is 401km (1000-ri).
Buyeo county people call Geumgang River Baengmagang River. Surrounding the west part of Buyeo in a semicircular way, the river starts from Cheonjeongdae Rock in Hoam-ri, Gyuam-myeon, Buyeo-gun; passing through Nakhwaam Cliff and Gudeurae Quay, it runs about 16km to Banjowon-ri, Sedo-myeon. In the <Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms)> and <Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan)>, Geumgang River was named ‘Baekgang’ and ‘Baekchongang,’ respectively. The word ‘Baengma’ means ‘a great country.’ Thus, Baengmagang River implies ‘the river in a great country, or the river of a great country.’ Geumgang River still remains relatively intact. The riverside pebbles glimmer in the sunshine of early summer, its green water creates gentle waves with breeze, and its ripples are tinged with the scarlet sunset by evening. The Baekje Kingdom was established-and flourished-along with Geumgang River. Buyeo, which was the capital of Baekje for 123 years, is a historical repository of Baekje. The city is filled with the history and beauty of the old Kingdom Baekje in places.
Gungnamji Pond is a place imbued with Baekje’s delicate culture and profound history. It was named “Gungnamji” as the pond (ji) was located south (nam) to the royal palace (gung). According to the Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), “the pond was built by drawing water through a waterway about 7.85km long dug in the south of a royal palace, and willow trees were planted around the pond.” It is known as Korea’s oldest artificial pond built in 634 during the reign of King Mu of Baekje. The current Gungnamji Pond with an area of about 3.3 ha was restored and reduced to about 1/3 of its original size. Poryongjeong Pavilion with its signboard is located on ‘Floating (po) Islet’ in the middle of Gungnamji Pond. The name originated from the tale of birth of King Mu wherein his mother, living in the site of Gungnamji Pond, encountered a dragon and fell unconscious and later got pregnant with the future King Mu. Visitors can enter the pavilion by crossing the wooden bridge connecting to Floating Islet. Gungnamji Pond is also related to the love story of King Mu and Princess Seonhwa of Silla. Having received a secret order to spy on Silla’s state affairs, Seodong (the future King Mu) disguised himself as a Chinese yam merchant and infiltrated into Seorabeol (Silla’s capital) where he had that fateful meeting with Princess Seonhwa, the third daughter of King Jinpyeong of Silla. Then, Seodong composed the Ballad of Seodong containing the story in which ‘Princess Seonhwa secretly visits Seodong every night and leaves after hugging him’ and let local children sing it. As rumors spread through the mouths of the children, King Jinpyeong eventually expelled the princess, and Seodong took her to Baekje. The couple set up their home at the site of Gungnamji Pond.
Geumgang River is beautiful but is associated with the tragic history of Baekje. Busosanseong Fortress, offering an open view of Geumgang River, is imbued with the history of Sabi (today’s Buyeo), the last capital of the Baekje Kingdom after Wiryeseong (today’s Seoul) and Ungjin (today’s Gongju).
In the Records of Baekje of <Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms)>, Busansanseong Fortress is recorded as Sabiseong or Soburiseong. The fortress is known to have been built to protect the royal palace in 538 (16th year of the reign of King Seong of Baekje) when the capital was moved from Ungjin to Sabi.
Busansanseong Fortress with diameter of about 2.2km is located 106m above sea level. The trail is well-arranged in a dense forest of pines, flowering cherry trees, white oaks, and oak trees, making it accessible for children, the elderly, and the infirm.
After passing through Sabimun Gate, you can take the path on the right side to the gate. The path is packed with pine trees and covered with large, flat stones, so it is easy to walk on. On the way, you will encounter various buildings: first, Samchungsa Shrine, which enshrines the portraits of the three loyal subjects of Baekje-Seongchung, Heungsu, and Gyebaek—and their ancestral tablets; Yeongillu Pavilion, where Baekje’s king and noblemen went to see the sun rising over Yeoncheonbong Peak of Gyeryongsan Mountain; the Military Warehouse Site, which used to store grains in the Baekje period; and then Banwollu Pavilion with a great view. The fortress commands an open view of downtown Buyeo, Gudeurae field, and Baengmagang River.
Baekje, a maritime kingdom, exchanged culture and products with Japan and China. Gudeurae Quay was the starting point, which was busy with ships from and to China and Japan. At present, the quay is still busy with ferries carrying tourists instead of envoys, monks, scholars, and artists.
People listening to the song (Dreamy Baengmagang) “Under the moonlight of Baengmagang River, water birds cry……” recall the splendid days of Baekje.
Located here as well is a sculpture park displaying works of global master sculptors.
There is also the Geumgang Bike Path that is 146km long in all, starting from Daecheong Dam to the Geumgang Estuary Bank.
Bikers can enjoy riding along the Baengmagang riverside on both sides, from Baekjebo Reservoir to Gudeurae Quay and Guyam Quay.
At the end of the Hanseong Baekje period (the capital was today’s Seoul) after King Gaero was killed in Baekje by Goguryeo’s general, Baekje built up national strength in Gongju for 64 years.
King Seong of Baekje moved the capital again to Buyeo for the country’s resurgence, but the history of Baekje ended in 660 during the reign of King Uija.
Buyeo was the capital that made the brilliant culture of Baekje flourish for 6 generations over 123 years.
Thus, Buyeo is home to a number of cultural heritages of Baekje such as Pensive Maitreya Bodhisattva with a subtle smile, Baekje’s splendid designs, and Busosanseong Fortress with an open view of Baengmagang River, which makes us recall the poem Geumgang River written by Shin Dong-yup from Buyeo: ‘Baekje,/ 1,500 years is not a long time,/ as my grandfather thinks of his grandfather,/ it is not taking us long/ to think of Baekje……”
The Baekje Cultural Land is a reproduction of Baekje’s royal palace and village. The replica of Sabiseong (final capital of Baekje) consists of the royal palace, Neungsa Temple, living culture village, Wiryeseong (capital of the early Baekje period), Gobungongwon Park, Baekje Historical Museum, and others. In particular, the living culture village includes the reproduction of houses of noblemen, military, and middle and lower classes during the Baekje Dynasty.
Address : 455 Baekjemun-ro Gyuam-myeon, Buyeo-gun, Chungcheongnam-do
The Buyeo National Museum is well-known for its major exhibit “Great Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje,” which was discovered from the Temple Site of Neungsan-ri and designated as Treasure. This masterpiece craft of Baekje measuring 62.5cm high consists of the lotus flower-shaped body and the dragon-shaped burner support. Buddhist culture researchers explain that this incense burner expresses the Lotus-Womb World, which is a Buddhist utopia.
Address : 5 Geumseong-ro Buyeo-eup, Buyeo-gun, Chungcheongnam-do
Located below Nakhwaam Cliff, Goransa Temple was built to appease the revengeful spirit of Baekje people who died like fallen blossoms (nakhwa). Goransu, potable water comes out from the rock, while Spear-leaf selliquea fern, a perennial plant, grows cracks in the rock.
Address : San 1 Ssangbuk-ri, Buyeo-eup, Buyeo-gun, Chungcheongnam-do
