Walk along the stream
The Hotter It Gets,
the Brighter Gwangju's Green Shade Shines
I ventured into the forest in Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do. I longed to immerse myself in the cool shade of the trees, which deepened as the sun got hotter. The woods were as dense as I expected, and the shade was even thicker. Under the canopy of trees, I spent the day wandering through flower fields, taking naps, and eventually gazing at the dazzling city’s night scenery. I gently placed a comma—a moment of respite—on a sweltering summer day.
Writeup and photos by Lee Si-mok (travel writer), Hwadam Botanic Garden
The Shaded Forest of Summer's Noon
I once took great care to distinguish the seasons. When does spring arrive? When does summer begin? And when does autumn come? It seemed spring had finally arrived when the wind became mild, and it felt like summer had begun when I started to walk in search of shade. That's why I wandered in search of shade in the forest every summer, out of habit. With each deep breath I took in the shade, I loved the way the smell of the forest filled my senses.
Summer is when the forest is at its lushest. It becomes increasingly green, dense, and dark. I first heard the phrase "the perfect forest for captivating people!" from a friend back then. It was at Fern Garden, where the shade is said to be deepest in Hwadam Botanic Garden. My friend suggested we take a break, saying, "There's no better place than this in summer." And so, we spent a long time enjoying the shade of the trees. With every gust of wind, a cool breeze would sweep through, sending shivers down our spines.
Hwadam Botanic Garden is actually a place visited by more people in the fall than summer. This is because the autumn leaves are incredibly beautiful. Still, those who have experienced the forgetfulness of summer in the summer-nurtured woods truly understand the profound value of this place—the importance of noticing the moment when the temperature feels "a little cooler" on skin. In Hwadam Botanic Garden on a summer day, my senses become so sharp that I can notice even the slightest changes in my body. In the white birch forest and on the edge of the valley where fireflies live, summer can be forgotten.
In Hwadam Botanic Garden, flowers bloom and fade throughout the summer. A vibrant tapestry of summer blooms including yellow daylilies, toad lilies, Aster koraiensis, and purple-bracted plantain lilies adorn the forest, illuminating it with their radiant hues. A standout among the flowers is undoubtedly the hydrangea. Blooming repeatedly from mid-June to late August, hydrangeas are the protagonists that paint the green shade of the forest in blue hues.
Hydrangeas are adorned with clusters of flowers in varying sizes, unveiling their vibrant summer bouquets and captivating the beholder with their enchanting hues.
The lessons that time has taught me
Human growth is said to occur in a staircase-like manner. Many people suffer growing pains at every horizontal and vertical corner. Yet, it is only through these sufferings that we ascend the staircase of life, one step at a time. Time in the forest flows differently. The trees have been growing steadily taller and spreading their branches wider. At Paldang Water Fog Park, the growth of trees is showcased with remarkable clarity.
It was a summer a few years ago. The summer sun, shining down without any obstruction, was exceptionally hot. There was shade to escape the sun but it was cramped; the wind blew but brought no relief. Over time, this park has become lush and verdant, and it is now a truly wonderful place to rest and relax. As the shadows grew longer, some people spread out mats and enjoyed a picnic, while others lay down and unknowingly dozed off. Some people chose to set up a car picnic in shady spots, while others opted to sit on benches by the water's edge, enjoying the breeze and the view of Dumulmeori. The bench under the shade with the best view of Dumulmeori is a favorite spot among travelers.
Let's take a stroll when the sun begins its descent. Bathed in the vibrant hues of summer, the Metasequoia-lined path stands out as one of the park's most cherished strolling spots. Strolling along this path is an invitation to immerse oneself in the embrace of nature's verdant canopy. From time to time, like a shadow butterfly fluttering from the forest, the ground appears to surge with blossoms, evoking a curious dance within my soul.
Once a land area, Paldang Water Fog Park became an island when the man-made Paldang Lake was constructed in 1973. In 2012, a bridge connecting the island to the mainland was built, transforming it back into land. Amidst the wetlands between the mainland and the islands, clusters of lotus flowers bloom every summer, with waterbirds frequently taking flight between the islands and the lake.
Life has always been a struggle, as I have come to realize. It might not matter much whether I am at a horizontal or a vertical corner of time right now; I just hope that my current position, like a tree, is facing a direction that will bring others good things.
The deep consolation of sunset
Local Route 342 connects Lake Paldang and Namhansanseong Fortress. Along this winding path that follows Nambyeoksu Valley, the breeze always carries the scent of the season. The year was 2001, as I recall. I first ran this trail during the fiery autumn season when the maple leaves blazed like a raging wildfire. With each bend in the road, a new one revealed itself, and each turn brought another one into view. The winding trail was a source of endless delight. Whenever I felt time slipping away monotonously, I found myself on this trail. As I sped through the tunnel-like forest road with the windows down, the season of the moment seeped into my very being.
Whether it is with people or nature, becoming familiar with something takes time and effort. For me, the time spent wandering through the landscape is a journey in itself. I am grateful to be able to discover gradually and appreciate the scenery that has been known for so long.
Namhansanseong Fortress was built for defense. As a barrier made of earth, stones, or other materials, a fortress is built to prevent the intrusion of enemy forces. Scholars believe that the walls constructed by humans during their transition to a sedentary lifestyle marked the beginning of fortifications. The existence of mountain fortifications constructed as early as 1000 BCE to repel incursions from other tribes shows that there was much to protect even in ancient times. Namhansan Fortress alone was the site of fierce battles from the Three Kingdoms period to the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. The human struggle to capture and defend it was long and relentless.
As the sun begins to set, I make my way to both West Gate Observatory and Yeonjubong Watchtower. Of all the places in Namhansanseong Fortress, these two are where visitors tend to spend the most time. West Gate was closest to Samjeondo, so it was the gate that King Injo used when he went to surrender to the Qing army. Today, I stand atop this historic gate, gazing out at the mesmerizing panorama of Seoul's night skyline. Gazing down at the fields around Samjeondo (a quay near Jamsil) as if peering into the past, one sees a shimmering expanse of land resembling a "starry field." Nighttime, with its gentle veil of darkness, adds to the allure.
