If you like “something layered” and find curves more beautiful than straight lines, and you are attracted to atypical landscapes rather than typical ones, Geumsan Mountain is the perfect destination for you. If you get drawn to a waterfront lush with green, adore starry nights in a remote place with little artificial lights, and often get fascinated by a green field over which warm spring sunlight shines brightly, Geumsan Mountain is a must-visit place for you. The part of the river in Buri-myeon flowing to reach Muju will be particularly appealing to people with the aforesaid preferences. Jeokbyeokgang River features layers of mountains that unfold one after another, with the meandering stream presenting a dynamic contrast against the mountains that stand tall, looking solid and imposing.
Jeokbyeokgang River—meaning “a river that wets red cliffs as it flows”—specifically refers to the section of Geumgang River running through the area of red cliffs like Baekmagang River in Buyeo, covering a particular section of Geumgang River. As the name indicates, however, the geographical features are more important than the section of the river it covers. Jeokbyeokgang River creates a sense of loss because the section of the waterway is ended by Geumgang River flowing past Muju. Still, the water continues to meander along the valley, finally joining the West Sea. My journey began at Jeokbyeokgang River in order to appreciate better the tenacity of the waterway that keeps running to its final destination. Sitting on a field of gravel, I watched the reflection of the red cliff on the river for a while. Everything that my eyes met blended nicely with the broader landscape. Even the solitude of being by myself felt like a blessing at the moment. The right amount of loneliness can give you much needed time off your busy life to reflect on things that truly matter to you. And that is exactly what I needed.

There are far more curves and bends in the upper region of Geumgang River than in other parts. The river meanders so widely and so often that you can easily find U or S shapes along the river. Some curves are even shaped like W or Ω. For this reason, walking along Geumgang River in Geumsan means tracing the winding path carved by the water over the years. Curves and bends may look alike, but a similar yet different scene opens up before your eyes every time you make a turn along a curve. As you continue walking along the meanders, you will get to an interesting place and say, “Wow!” It is Wongol Park, the most popular place to visit in Geumsan with the artificial waterfalls dropping down the cliff from Booungsan Mountain.
Wolyeongsan Suspension Bridge gives you a panoramic view of the upper stream of Geumgang River featuring wild meanders. The bridge connects two mountains across Geumgang River, allowing visitors to have a much greater and broader view of the surrounding landscape. The bridge has quickly emerged as a hot spot for great views. The top view spot is Wolyeong Peak Observatory. Cross the suspension bridge that swings widely every step you take, and you will reach the observatory from where you can get the best panoramic view of Geumgang River meandering around Booungsan Mountain in an S shape.
Has the river carved the mountain, or does the mountain stand there to stall the flow of the water? Either way, it is clearly a masterpiece of Mother Nature. Among the four major rivers in Korea, only Geumgang River flows to the north. In a sense, the river flows backward or upward as the north is generally represented as up. “Going against the flow” gives the river a sense of power as if it has some kind of its own energy to find a way.