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2023. Oct VOL.667
2023. Oct VOL.667
Poet Yoo An-jin published a book of poetry at the age of 80, which includes the poem ‘Chuncheon’s fall is like spring.’ Although Chuncheon is nicknamed ‘spring stream,’ or ‘hometown of spring,’ it is in fact closer to the expression Chunraebulsachun meaning ‘Spring is not like spring (in Chuncheon),’ because it is located in a place where it is difficult to feel spring even in spring. According to a saying, that’s why the city was named ‘Chuncheon’ with a wish. It may be natural for Poet Yoo An-jin to think of spring when it comes to Chuncheon.
When I arrived in Chuncheon sometime after Ipchu (Beginning of Autumn), Soyanggang River boasted of its spectacular view with rising water fog at dawn. While I was looking at the scenery, the phrase ‘The very place where the woman of my dreams whom I cannot help but fall in love with’ from the poem Chuncheon’s fall is like spring came to mind. Chuncheon is a place filled with memories of college MT (membership training) trip and perhaps first love for those in their 40s and 50s, while it is a popular travel destination with retro sensitivity for those in their 20s and 30s. As a city of romance and the hometown of spring, Chuncheon is full of charms for visitors.
Chuncheon is also called the city of fog as fog rises up more than 250 days a year in the area. At dawn, water fog from Soyangho Lake, Uiamho Lake, and Chuncheonho Lake flows into the city. It could be Chuncheon’s fog, that’s why middle-aged people who spent their youth in the 1970s and 1980s remember Chuncheon as the most romantic travel destination. I imagine the scene in which the lovers, holding hands, got off the train on the Gyeongchunseon Line at Chuncheon Station and walked toward the city as if running into a dreamlike fog. Naturally, I can imagine such fun and exciting scene in Chuncheon, the city of youth.
Along with Chungjuho Lake, Soyangho Lake in Soyanggang River is the largest lake in Korea. Soyangho Lake, which is now well-known for its Soyanggang Dam, used to have a boat traveling to Yanggu and Inje. Thus, to get to Mt. Sokcho or Mt. Seoraksan, people used to take a boat from Soyangho Lake to reach Mt. Naeseorak (Inner Seorak). Today, only cruise ships carrying tourists travel to Cheongpyeongsa Temple for about 10 minutes on the lake.
The thick fog is created by a huge amount of water from Soyanggang River. When the daily temperature range is large around fall, sometimes it’s so foggy that one can’t see an inch ahead. I think a dream-like scenery in which a flock of ducks swim through the rising fog can only be seen in Chuncheon. The best place to see the water fog is Soyang Bridge 5 where an observatory is situated. In addition, in November, photographers line up on an unpaved road by the lake from early morning to take pictures of hoarfrost on the trees. When the morning sunlight scatters like gold dust on the surface of the water and milky fog rises, the lake boasts of splendid scenery mixed with the sunlight and fog. If you visit Chuncheon in fall, you mustn’t miss this fantastic view among other hidden secret sights in the city.
Although the charming waterway of Soyanggang River has disappeared, the winding road along the river’s water current still remains. It is the lakeside road that passes through Baehuryeong Pass at the foot of Mt. Obongsan. This curvy road leads to Cheongpyeongsa Temple.
Built in 973 during the Goryeo Dynasty, Cheongpyeongsa Temple is a popular mountain temple among young couples. The road from the parking lot is about 2 km long to the temple. This dense forest road is full of charms and scenic views. Couples who visit the temple could have a wonderful date just by taking a boat and walking through the forest path. In addition, Cheongpyeongsa Temple has a story of intense love that encourages the romantic relationship of couples. The story goes like this.
Once upon a time, Emperor Taizong of Tang had a beautiful daughter. There was a young man who had an unrequited love for the princess, but as usual, the tragedy begins with the fact that the young man was a commoner. The young man, unable to have his love reciprocated, falls ill with lovesickness, and the emperor kills the man. However, the young man who wants to be with the princess even after death gets reincarnated as a serpent and clings to her leg without falling off. Eventually, as the princess became thinner, she decided to pray to Buddha and ended up at Cheongpyeongsa Temple in Goryeo. When the princess thought that it was late at night so she would sleep in a cave and go back to the temple the next day for prayer, for some reason, the serpent fell off for the first time in ten years. But the serpent became impatient while waiting and tried to enter the temple to find the princess. Then, the serpent was struck by lightning in front of Hoejeonmun Door of the temple and pushed by heavy rain and died.
Hoejeonmun Door of Cheongpyeongsa Temple is said to have been named Hoejeonmun because the serpent turned around (hoejeon) the door (mun) to get out. However, the temple’s Hoejeonmun Door refers to an abbreviation of the word Yunhoejeonsaeng, meaning “reincarnation.”
If you recall old memories of Chuncheon including your first love, you might remember the ‘Ethiopia House’ located next to the Monument to Ethiopian Korean War Veterans beside Gongjicheon Stream. This coffee shop served exceptional coffee beans that were hard to find at that time. It is said that it has not closed even for a single day since its opening in 1968. After purchasing a cup of coffee from the coffee shop, I enjoyed walking along Gongjicheon Stream, which offers an idyllic scenery of Uiamho Lake on which a duck boat was on the water with freely falling leaves occasionally creating a ripple.
Gim Yu-jeong (also known as Kim You-jeong), Chuncheon’s representative writer, lived a short life but left a profound footprint in the history of Korean literature. The Kim You-jeong House of Literature was established at Sille Village in Jeung-ri, Sindong-myeon, which was his hometown and the setting of his works. This complex includes his birth home, an exhibition hall, a pond, a statue, etc., so it is a good place to stroll around. Gimyujeong Station, a 5-min walk from the Kim You-jeong House of Literature, was originally called Sinnam Station; when the House was built, the station’s name was changed to Gimyujeong Station. Right next to Gimyujeong Station is an old train station with a retro atmosphere that prompts many visitors to take souvenir photos.
In the evening, Soyanggang Skywalk is an ideal attraction to enjoy the beautiful view of the sunset. The Skywalk was established in 2016 and is characterized by its transparent floor above Soyanggang River on which you will feel like walking in the sky.
Gongjicheon Stream, which leads to Bukhangang River, is a major urban resting place in Chuncheon. A variety of facilities including Gongjicheon Sculpture Park and Uiam Park are lined up at the sides of Gongjicheon Stream, with Gongjicheongyo Bridge for pedestrians laid across the stream. The waterside trail and bike path offer a beautiful seasonal view, attracting many visitors all year round.
Address: 690-1, Geunhwa-dong, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do
Uiamho Lake is an artificial lake with area of 17 ㎢, width of 5 km, and length of 8 km. It is located on the side of the national highway in the valley of Mt. Samaksan, 12 km southwest of Chuncheon. It is not an exaggeration to say that, because of the construction of Uiam Lake, Chuncheon was called “a lakeside city.” Its oval-shaped lake view matches well with the landscapes of Mt. Chuncheon and Mt. Samaksan, making it look like a natural lake rather than a man-made one.
Address: Seo-myeon, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do
